Sesame Soba with Quick-Pickled Cucumber
Cold noodles in a nutty sesame dressing, sharpened by ten-minute pickles.
Chickpeas in a tangy, gingery tomato gravy that comes together from the cupboard. Better the next day, if any survives.

Heat the oil and fry the cumin seeds for 30 seconds until they crackle.
Add the onion and cook until deep golden, about 10 minutes.
Stir in the garlic, ginger, chili and spices and cook for 1 minute.
Add the tomatoes and cook down to a thick paste, about 8 minutes, then add the chickpeas and a cup of water.
Simmer for 15 minutes, crushing a few chickpeas against the pan to thicken the gravy. Finish with lemon juice and serve with rice or flatbread.
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Cold noodles in a nutty sesame dressing, sharpened by ten-minute pickles.
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25 minFour ingredients and fifteen minutes, the way it is served in a Venetian trattoria at ten at night. Good tomatoes and patience do all the work.